S A L Z B U R G

Baroque and Music city in the Alps.
Salzburg means salt mountain. The Celts founded Salzburg (then called Juvavum) in the 4th century BC as the main city near the salt mines. Now it has population 145,000  and the capital of the federal state of Salzburg. Nearly 70,000 of the city's inhabitants live in its suburbs.  The city is majestically beautiful, arranged around the banks of the river Salzach, squeezed between two cliff outcrops and surrounded by Alpine peaks.  The great Cathedral , the towering over the city the medieval fortress Hohensalzburg,  the Residenzplatz  are  the centerpieces of this Baroque city. 
Salzburg has all the attributes of a capital city - grandeur, culture, and a fascinating history. The old center of Salzburg is very small and bursting with historic sights - from the remnants of the Roman city,  to the churches, palaces, and squares constructed during Salzburg's thousand years under the powerful prince-archbishops. The other element that has shaped Salzburg is music,  Salzburg is birthplace of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart , but it is also a place of scenes from "The Sound of music". Salzburg was the home for about 15 years of the writer Stefan Zweig. Salzberg was also a candidate city for the Olympic Winter Games 2010.
Point to the pictures to see them in full size.

Residenzplatz. Residenz. Residenzbrunner. Franciscan Church(behind).
Residenz (the Archbishop's Residence) was the seat of the Prince Archbishops from the 12th century until 1803. Apart from being archbishops, they also held absolute power over Salzburg. Residenz has 180 rooms. Residence Prince Archbishop Dietrich started the Residenz in 1595 had good Renaissance plans for Salzburg.  
Across from the Residenz is the New Residenz with the famous Glockenspiel. The Glockenspiel with its 35-bell chime overlooks the square and plays a changing tune three times a day. 
The Residence Gallery on the third floor has a large collection of paintings from the 16th to the 19th century.
Residenzbrunnen (Residence Fountain) is 15 meters high and the largest baroque fountain outside Italy.  It was built between 1658 and 1661 by Italian artist and is made of marble from the Untersberg, a mountain near Salzburg. This fountain  provided drinking water for the royal horses. Its waterspouting horses reached world fame thanks to their appearance in the Sound of Music. Maria stopped at the fountain to splash water at the horses while singing "I have confidence".

Mirabellgarten. Pegasus Horse fountain. Marionettentheater (left). Festung Hohensalzburg seen from Mirabell.
Mirabell Palace, Mirabell Gardens, Mirabellplatz.  Mirabell Gardens is an excellent example of Baroque landscape gardening. Originally called "Altenau", it was reconstructed and rebuilt several times. Mirabell now has seat of the mayor of Salzburg and offices for  the city government. Marble Hall , used today for wedding ceremonies and concerts. The Salzburg Baroque Museum displays  first-rate examples of progressive sketches and designs of monumental structures in the 17th and 18th centuries. The collection was donated to the City and Province of Salzburg by Professor Dr. Kurt Rossacher and his wife to be open to the public. The exhibits range from works by Rubens, Cortona, Maffei, Bernini and Algardi, Rottmayr, Altomonte and Troger, Tiepolo and the Guardis to Maulbertsch and Fragonard.
The Heckentheater (Hedge Theater) is located on the west side of the Gardens. Built between 1704 and 1718, it is one of the oldest hedge theaters north of the Alps. 
The Salzburger Marionettentheater was founded in 1913 and is one of the largest and most famous marionette theaters in Europe.
Prince Archbishop Wolf Dietrich ruled Salzburg from 1587 to 1612 and started over seventy urban projects that transformed the city from a late medieval town into a modern seat of government in late Renaissance/early Baroque style. Wolf Dietrich had the palace built in 1606 for his mistress Salome Alt. He also had a wife and 15 children -- apparently vows of priestly celibacy were different then than they are now. His successor, Archbishop Markus Sittikus von Hohenems, enlarged the castle to make it a summer residence and renamed it Mirabell which means "beautiful view". Prince Archbishop Johann Ernst Graf von Thun  had the famous Mirabell Gardens remodelled in 1690 with groups of statues depicting figures from Greek mythology, marble vases designed by Fischer von Erlach. 
In 1854 Emperor Franz Joseph opened the Mirabell Gardens to the public. 
The Pegasus Horse fountain , designed by Kaspar Gras from Innsbruck (1661), was placed here in 1913 after having stood on Chapter Square, Mirabell Square, Makart Square and even in a museum (under a staircase). The 4 groups of figures around the fountain were sculpted by Ottavio Mosto (1690) and symbolize the 4 elements: Fire (Aeneas' flight from Troy), Air (Hercules' battle with Antaeus), Earth (Pluto, lord of the Underworld abducting Zeus' daughter Persephone) and Water (Paris carrying off Helen, precipitating the Trojan War). Maria and kids from Sounds of Music are learning to sing Do-Re-Mi  and  dancing around the fountain. 

A gnome in the Dwarves Garden of the Mirabell Palace Gardens.
The Zwerglgarten (Dwarf Garden) dates back to Archbishop Franz Anton Graf Harrach, who had a dwarf theater with 28 dwarves. Nothing is known of the creator of these "mysterious figures". These pitiful, misshapen beings, attached to almost all of the Baroque European courts for entertainment purposes, were highly respected and well-treated because of their integrity and loyalty. The dwarves in the Mirabell Gardens, made of Untersberg marble, are representative of these grotesque characters.  Crown Prince Ludwig of Bavaria had the disfigured creatures with their goiters and hunchbacks removed from the Dwarf Garden (they were to be destroyed). Fortunately, they were only auctioned off and the dwarves were forgotten for over one hundred years until 1921. Today the carefully restored dwarves are set up in the Bastion Garden and the hope remains that all of the dwarves still preserved will be retrieved and reunited in their historically innate location.


Hellbrunn.
Hellbrunn Palace was built between 1613 and 1619 under the orders of Markus Sittikus von Hohenems and its architecture is very unique in Europe for being one of the most beautiful examples of renaissance buildings north of the Alps. As the archbishop had spent part of his life in Italy he tried to recreate an Italian atmosphere in this castle and its gardens. Unlike many other palaces, Hellbrunn has undergone no style changes. The palace was primarily used as a site of luxurious celebrations and spectacular events. A spacious park for the artificial water games in Hellbrunn with numerous grottoes, trick fountains, the 'stone theatre'  and the mechanical toy theater were built to entertain the noble guests of Archbishop Markus Sittikus.  Water was the central theme in the palace's design.  There are many springs in the mountain which fill the gardens with life. It’s a fun place .Hellbrunn has a Wasserspiele (the trick fountains) including a table where 9 of 10 seats have a fountain in the bottom. The bishop, of course, would sit at the seat without a fountain. Guests could not leave the table after a meal as long as the bishop was seated, so they had to stay wet if he decided to test the plumbing. 
The palace halls filled with the impressive frescoes, masterpieces of the 17th century by Donato Mascagni From Florence.
 The pavilion or glass gazebo from the movie Sounds of Music after a complete renovation moved  to the park at Hellbrunn so more tourists  could enjoin it. One of the main sites from the film is the  setting for various love scenes, like "Sixteen Going on Seventeen" and "Something Good", Maria and the Baron met and professed their love in it.

Horse Pond.

Festival district. Hohensalzburg.
Horse Pond   was built together with the front façade of the royal stables  in 1695 after plans by Fischer von Erlach. The central group of "horse tamers" was formerly located in an oval basin axial to the portal of the royal stables. A palace façade with depictions of horses was located behind it. In 1732 the Horse Pond was restored . The group of horse tamers was turned by 90 degrees and received a new pedestal. The basin was enclosed by a balustrade. Josef Ebner painted horse frescoes on the rear wall in the style of Stradanus' engraving. The timer   leads the horses through the water to cool their fetlocks.
The Festival District is located at the foot of the Mönchsberg. Festival houses were part of the archbishops stables designed by Fischer von Erlach. Three theaters, the Large Festival Hall, the  Small Festival Hall, the Felsenreitschule (the Rock Riding School) are under one roof but each with its own flair.   The "real" Trapp family from Sounds of Music sang in the Felsenreitschule at a choir competition.   


Getreidegasse. Burgerspitalkirche.
The Getreidegasse is most attractive and  most famous and picturesque shopping street right in the heart of the  old town. The name means "grain street". Countless elaborately ornamented signs, artistic portals and romantic arcaded courtyards provide the perfect backdrop for the hustle and bustle of this busy shopping lane. Today it is still upscale and has wrought iron store signs hanging out over the street. - in the days when many people were illiterate, they served a very useful purpose. The high and narrow houses are sandwiched tightly together with quaint little shops beneath displaying wrought iron guilded signs. Many of these elaborate "advertising signs" are the product of skilful craftsmanship. There are all the traditional Austrian wares.  Some houses still have the beams for the hoists which lifted loads from the storage rooms. The charm of the Getreidegasse is not only generated by the high, narrow houses tightly nestled together, the enticing shops and the wrought iron guild signs, but also to the romantic passageways and courtyards.  The passageways became shopping passages which also serve as covered galleries. These interconnected buildings have given Salzburg a certain architectural flair.   The Schatz Haus passageway leading from Getreidegasse 3 to University Square is probably the most frequented passageway. An impressive relief portraying the Madonna with Child is located in a dark niche. A plaque  commemorates the stay of the German socialist leader, August Bebel there. Today most people are attracted to the Getreidegasse because of its multitude of shops selling  just about anything one could want. 
Mozart's birthplace is located at No. 9 Getreidegasse.  The Mozart Museum is located in the rooms formerly occupied by the Mozart Family.


View over Salzburg from Hohensalzburg. Cathedral. Franciscan  and University Churches (left). Mirabellgarten across the Salzach River.
Hohensalzburg Fortress (Hohensalzburg) was symbol of the power politics and religion that ruled the town. Built on a rock 400 feet above the river in 1077 , it is the largest best preserved fortress in central Europe and as well as most likely being the continents best preserved medieval castle. It is a landmark of the city, dating in its present form from about 1500, when the fortress was greatly extended under Archbishop Leonhard von Keutschach, although continually enlarged until the 17th cent.  and  completed under Prince Archbishop Max Gandolf Kuenberg in 1681. A tunnel through the mountain for water was built 850 years ago. A pump house was built 400 years ago. 

Alpin meadows.
There is the tower of justice torture  with torture chamber as well as impressive state rooms with wooden ceilings, supported by marble consoles, prince’s room – "golden chamber" with a marvellous, late gothic, painted tiled stove with figures. Cathedral (Dom) is the center of the old town and the most significant piece of church architecture, with its magnificent façade and mighty dome. It represents the most impressive  early Baroque edifice north of the Alps. Originally was  built by the Irish in 774. The Cathedral was destroyed 10 times by fires. The front has the years 774, 1628, and 1959. The 774 model was 66 meters long. 1614 rebuilt under Prince Archbishop Markus Sittikus according to plans by Santino Solari; consecrated in 1628 by Prince Archbishop Paris Lodron. It is in an Italian baroque style, built by stone masters and painters imported from Italy. The current model is 99 meters long.  
Among precious objects to be found in Salzburg's Cathedral are the baptismal font in which Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart was baptized. There is also a the majestic  with its 4,000-pipe organ., surrounded by angels playing instruments and crowned by Rupert and Virgil. W. A. Mozart was the organist here for two years. He composed numerous undying works of sacred music for Salzburg.
Franziskanergasse (Franciscan Church) . The most interesting church in Salzburg from an architectural point of view. Founded during the 8th century, destroyed by fire in 12th cent., Romanesque nave built in 13th cent., late Gothic hall choir 1408/1460, Renaissance decorations and furnishings, Baroque chancel, Baroque high altar designed by Fischer von Erlach  with Gothic Madonna by Michael Pacher 18th cent.
The Franciscan Church is similar to the history of Salzburg Cathedral , both churches are distinguished by their contrasting architectural styles: the Cathedral, a dominating Baroque bishops' church and the Franciscan Church, a slender, Gothic church for the middle class.

University Church.
The University of Salzburg, founded in 1622, achieved great prestige during the reign of the Habsburg Empire and was one of the most famous

Salzach River.
Europe universities of 17th and 18th century. After WWII, the University was re-established and is now flourishing. The University of Salzburg capitalizes on its position as a leading university in the center of Europe. 
The University Church, designed by Fischer von Erlach and consecrated in 1707, is a popular setting  for classical, sacred  and modern music. 
The Salzach River divides the city into two parts, old and new. Most of the major attractions in the city’s old town are tightly clustered between the Salzach River and the Mönschberg.


Mirabellgarten. Paracelsus.
The Salzburger „Kurhaus“ in the Mirabell garden is named after Paracelsus. There is a large statue of him in front of the main entrance, which is the city’s way of honouring a man as Town Physician. Paracelsus was the great doctor, scientist, humanist and lay preacher.   The story of his teachings and deeds has survived half a millennium. Paracelsus was ahead of his time in medical terms. He recognized that madness was an illness in contrast to his colleagues and the church who believed in spiritual confusion. Paracelsus also developed a series of medicines in his laboratory, which had effects on both the body and the mind.   He believed that Medicine can only be learned from what  the eyes can see and the fingers touch. Practice should not be based on speculative theory; theory should be derived from practice.  Paracelsus was steeped in alchemy ("It is not the task of alchemists to make gold, but to prepare medicines") and believed that the body was more like a chemical laboratory.  "In all things there is a poison, and there is nothing without a poison. It depends only upon the dose whether a poison is poison or not." Treatment of syphilis was an example of his approach.   Paracelsus recommended the use of small doses of mercury for syphilis. Among other important contributions was his recognition that the inhalation of silicon dust can cause silicosis.   And he made one of the first attempts at artificial ventilation by inserting bellows into the patient's nostrils to inflate his lungs.  His nick name "Paracelsus" literally means beyond, or superior to, Celsus, who was a great medical writer in first century Rome.
The 15th and 16th centuries were still firmly rooted in the teachings of Hippocrates, Galen, Avicenna and the other giants of medicine. A wind of change was coming, the Renaissance, and Paracelsus, along with thought leaders of his day ­Columbus, Martin Luther, and Leonardo Da Vinci, were the men who had the courage to challenge established concepts and attitudes. It is said that the human species rejects a new idea just as it rejects a foreign protein.   Vacillating between episodes of brilliance and drunkenness, Paracelsus remained his entire life an unwanted wanderer without a home. He died a pauper, from cirrhosis of the liver and nephritis and buried in a small chapel in Salzburg.


September 04, 2003

Copyright © 2003 Nadia Smirnova All rights reserved